Solder Secret

Solder Secret. How to solder ???

The Secret to Perfect Solder Lines

Posted on | December 11, 2009 | No Comments

Solder is used to hold the different pieces of stained glass unitedly in a stained glass panel. To achieve a pro quality, solder lines need to be level and uniform. This can be achieved by later basic steps and using quality tools and available quantity.

The tools and necessities needed for soldering comprise a soldering iron, solder and flux. The soldering iron should have a ceramic heating component with either a built in climatic characteristic controller or plugged into a sequester temperature controller unit. The solder second-hand needs to be a 60/40 mixture of alloys for the majority of your soldering. For attractive soldering, an alloy mixture of 60/37 solder is recommended. An odorless no-smoking liquid flux is the preferred flux.

Basic Steps for Soldering

1. Heat the soldering iron to 68 on the climatic characteristic controller
2. Use an polisher pad or wet eadge to clean the iron’s tip before you begin and periodically as you work.
3. Lightly apply flux to a operation of the stained glass protude you are working on
4. Using 60/40 solder, unroll it to a trained length, and then lightly finger the area to be worked on.
5. Place the solder on the tip of your iron and lead both the iron and the solder at a slow continual rate entourage the fluxed copper foil seams.
6. When you need to end or stop, do not just transfer the iron vertically off, but rather slide the iron towards the glass.
7. Don’t solder out to the boundary of your stained glass piece, leave approximately ? inch along the edge. This will grant the zinc came to fit over your glass.
8. When doomed with one side of your stained glass piece, cautiously turn it over and repeat the same process on that side.

How to Avoid Common Problems

* Pits or bubbles in solder lines – Too much flux causes pits and bubbles
* Portions of copper foil obvious – Using too little flux, portions of the copper foil will continue visible
* Lumpy lines – The iron is not hot enough, turn the temperature up in small increments
* Glass breaks – Either the iron was too hot or it was held in one place too long
* Solder spits and sputters – Too much flux was used
* Lines flat – The iron was moved too fast or not adequate solder was used
* Solder bulges – The iron was moved too slowly or too much solder was used
* Peaks in solder – The iron was no, non- hot enough
* Solder seeps throughout to the other side – The iron was too hot
* Copper foil lifts up when soldering – This could be a result from too hot of an iron, moving too slowly, too much flux or a bad foiling job

While paten will mask some inconsistencies in your solder lines, others will still be manifest and take away from the expert look of your part. With patience, review and the correct tools and substitute you can have expert solder lines.

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